I flew back to KL this afternoon. Unfortunately, my 28 minute train journey into the city took nearly 4 hours. The trains were disrupted by flooding. I, and many others, were stranded on Putrajaya station for hours, waiting for the promised bus to pick us up. Everyone was very good humoured about the long wait. That could never happen in Cape Town. I behaved myself and refrained from using what Alex calls "technical terms", the F... word.
It is late - soon it will be midnight. To quote Samuel Pepys "...and so to bed".
Friday, November 18, 2005
Thursday, November 17, 2005
Penang Times
I have been enjoying Penang, trying different foods. I had Dim Sum for breakfast, and discovered why I have never mastered chopsticks. I use the wrong fingers - the second and third, instead of the third and fourth. I didn't drop everything down my front as usually happens.
I moved hotels today - from a down-at-heel 2 star to The Blue Mansion, Cheong Fatt Tze.
I am sitting in the Blue Mansion using the hotel internet for free. I have just come in from having supper with my friend, Doreen. We also walked around the Gurney Drive Mall. Of course, we ended up in a bookshop. This time I controlled myself.
The Blue Mansion was built by a Chinese millionaire at the end of the 19th century. It has many courtyards, stained glass windows and windows with louvred shutters. The courtyard outside my room is quite warm, but my room is almost chilly..
In my room called "Sinketh" there is a a big ceiling fan, a double bed with small tables on each side. The bed lamps are large ceramic pots with shades. There is hardly enough room to put my alarm clock and glasses' case on one of them. There is also a dark wooden table. The walls are so thick that there is a cupboad set into one. It contains yellow and blue china bowls.
I have my own bathroom, which is behind the bedroom.It has a big white bath (called a "long bath" here). There is a shower above the bath. And really hot water. It was lovely to have a hot shower.
I have a small fridge, with tea and coffee things (the instant kind) and a kettle, on top. There is also a sideboard with a large mirror, a vase of flowers and an old clock which stopped 2 o'clock aeons ago. All this is much more luxurious than my other accommodation has been.
I joined the 3pm tour of the house. The house is a traditional Chinese courtyard house, but has Western features too. The guide filled us in on classical feng sui principles which dictated the location and design of he house, the art deco stained glass windows, the gold leaf decorations on the carved wooden screens, the decorative exterior reliefs made of pieces of porcelain. (One of these includes Mary on her donkey on her way to Bethlehem with Joseph. Strange as the owner was not Christian.)
The central point of the house where the "chi" or its cosmic energy is strongest is marked by potted plants. Directing and balancing the chi of the house and its location is what classical feng sui is about, it is not simply interior design. The effect has resulted in a house which provided comfortable living conditions in a tropical climate, when there was no air conditioning or electricity.
There is a smallish ginger cat with a very loud miao. It has a malformed tail. It seems friendly and allowed me to stroke it. I don't know if it is part of the establishment or has simply wandered in from the street. (I am having cat withdrawal symptoms.)
For the first time since I have been in Malaysia I have seen a mozzie. I haven't put on an repellent so I will stop right now as I come up in itchy red bumps when I have been munched. So I am signing off.
I moved hotels today - from a down-at-heel 2 star to The Blue Mansion, Cheong Fatt Tze.
I am sitting in the Blue Mansion using the hotel internet for free. I have just come in from having supper with my friend, Doreen. We also walked around the Gurney Drive Mall. Of course, we ended up in a bookshop. This time I controlled myself.
The Blue Mansion was built by a Chinese millionaire at the end of the 19th century. It has many courtyards, stained glass windows and windows with louvred shutters. The courtyard outside my room is quite warm, but my room is almost chilly..
In my room called "Sinketh" there is a a big ceiling fan, a double bed with small tables on each side. The bed lamps are large ceramic pots with shades. There is hardly enough room to put my alarm clock and glasses' case on one of them. There is also a dark wooden table. The walls are so thick that there is a cupboad set into one. It contains yellow and blue china bowls.
I have my own bathroom, which is behind the bedroom.It has a big white bath (called a "long bath" here). There is a shower above the bath. And really hot water. It was lovely to have a hot shower.
I have a small fridge, with tea and coffee things (the instant kind) and a kettle, on top. There is also a sideboard with a large mirror, a vase of flowers and an old clock which stopped 2 o'clock aeons ago. All this is much more luxurious than my other accommodation has been.
I joined the 3pm tour of the house. The house is a traditional Chinese courtyard house, but has Western features too. The guide filled us in on classical feng sui principles which dictated the location and design of he house, the art deco stained glass windows, the gold leaf decorations on the carved wooden screens, the decorative exterior reliefs made of pieces of porcelain. (One of these includes Mary on her donkey on her way to Bethlehem with Joseph. Strange as the owner was not Christian.)
The central point of the house where the "chi" or its cosmic energy is strongest is marked by potted plants. Directing and balancing the chi of the house and its location is what classical feng sui is about, it is not simply interior design. The effect has resulted in a house which provided comfortable living conditions in a tropical climate, when there was no air conditioning or electricity.
There is a smallish ginger cat with a very loud miao. It has a malformed tail. It seems friendly and allowed me to stroke it. I don't know if it is part of the establishment or has simply wandered in from the street. (I am having cat withdrawal symptoms.)
For the first time since I have been in Malaysia I have seen a mozzie. I haven't put on an repellent so I will stop right now as I come up in itchy red bumps when I have been munched. So I am signing off.
Monday, November 14, 2005
KL TIMES I
I feel like a country cousin. In the two years since I was last in Kuala Lumpur (KL for short) things have changed a great deal. There is money about and this is a very internet connected and digital society.
As you enter the airport terminal after disembarking there are free internet stations. I sent a short email from there, but 06h30 is not my best time, especially having had very little sleep in the last two days.
The plane wasn't full. There were two empty seats next to me, but in sardine class that does'nt give you much room to stretch. The food was quite nice, much better than British Airways.
I travelled into KL by train - aircon and tv.; but the KLIA Ekspres didn't express for some technical reason. Everything is very green. Lots of palm trees. As the train got nearer the city there were the massive high rise flats. With or without embellishments, depending on your income. I think they are rather ugly, generally speaking. The trip took 28 minutes, much less time a taxi, and much cheaper. The new airport is an hour's drive from the city, that's not allowing for heavy traffic.
My homestay is a backpacker's establishment. The outside is weather stained, but it is clean, central and cheap. I have a bare private room with aircon. No window. I share a shower (a cold one) and loo. (There is also a shower in the loo, which I find odd and inconvenient.) One leaves one's shoes at the front door. There are commonal slip slops outside the loo and the shower.
I tried to get my cell phone unlocked and buy "pay as you go" access. I think the young salesman was offended by the antiquity of my phone. To get the thing working is not worth the cost.
The mall I am in is digital heaven, if that is your idea of heaven, - cell phones with video, digital cameras, laptops; the works. I noticed a hair dresser was offering "a digital perm". That has set me wondering.
I went into one of The Ladies in the Mall and was pleasantly surprised. (I won't tell any horror stories from my previous trip - like shoe prints on the toilet seat.) It was clean and did not stink of pee, nor was the floor awash. (Loos in Malaysia have a hose which serves the same function as a bidet.) There was one small problem, they were all squat loos. The lady who took my money (yes, you have to pay 20 sen and provide your own loo paper) very kindly unlocked the toilet for the disabled so I was able to be seated in the manner I am accustomed. Two pot plants in the hand basin inside the loo cubicle prevented me from using it.)
As you enter the airport terminal after disembarking there are free internet stations. I sent a short email from there, but 06h30 is not my best time, especially having had very little sleep in the last two days.
The plane wasn't full. There were two empty seats next to me, but in sardine class that does'nt give you much room to stretch. The food was quite nice, much better than British Airways.
I travelled into KL by train - aircon and tv.; but the KLIA Ekspres didn't express for some technical reason. Everything is very green. Lots of palm trees. As the train got nearer the city there were the massive high rise flats. With or without embellishments, depending on your income. I think they are rather ugly, generally speaking. The trip took 28 minutes, much less time a taxi, and much cheaper. The new airport is an hour's drive from the city, that's not allowing for heavy traffic.
My homestay is a backpacker's establishment. The outside is weather stained, but it is clean, central and cheap. I have a bare private room with aircon. No window. I share a shower (a cold one) and loo. (There is also a shower in the loo, which I find odd and inconvenient.) One leaves one's shoes at the front door. There are commonal slip slops outside the loo and the shower.
I tried to get my cell phone unlocked and buy "pay as you go" access. I think the young salesman was offended by the antiquity of my phone. To get the thing working is not worth the cost.
The mall I am in is digital heaven, if that is your idea of heaven, - cell phones with video, digital cameras, laptops; the works. I noticed a hair dresser was offering "a digital perm". That has set me wondering.
I went into one of The Ladies in the Mall and was pleasantly surprised. (I won't tell any horror stories from my previous trip - like shoe prints on the toilet seat.) It was clean and did not stink of pee, nor was the floor awash. (Loos in Malaysia have a hose which serves the same function as a bidet.) There was one small problem, they were all squat loos. The lady who took my money (yes, you have to pay 20 sen and provide your own loo paper) very kindly unlocked the toilet for the disabled so I was able to be seated in the manner I am accustomed. Two pot plants in the hand basin inside the loo cubicle prevented me from using it.)
KL TIMES III
Well, I found KL Times I and have reposted it.
Yesterday evening I went to China Town. It is has changed a great deal in two years. The stalls are concentrated in Jalan Petaling. They are now under cover, a high metal canopy. There is also a fancy ornamental gateway; that I don't remember.
I took photos, and landed up in teashops after squeezing through the crowded stalls. Teapots and all sorts of tea making paraphanalia for all the tea in China. Brick tea, tea in small balls, loose tea, green tea...
I saw rugby shirts for the Lions, All Blacks, and the Springboks. Interesting as rugby is not played in Malaysia, as far as I know.
I travelled back from China Town on the monorail. Transport is convenient and cheap, even ordinary taxis.
Unfortunately, my camera has been stolen. I am angry at losing it, as much because of the photos of family, cats and my holiday, as at the monetary cost of the loss. I have asked my sister to contact my insurance.
I fly to Penang later today. I am spending four days there.
Yesterday evening I went to China Town. It is has changed a great deal in two years. The stalls are concentrated in Jalan Petaling. They are now under cover, a high metal canopy. There is also a fancy ornamental gateway; that I don't remember.
I took photos, and landed up in teashops after squeezing through the crowded stalls. Teapots and all sorts of tea making paraphanalia for all the tea in China. Brick tea, tea in small balls, loose tea, green tea...
I saw rugby shirts for the Lions, All Blacks, and the Springboks. Interesting as rugby is not played in Malaysia, as far as I know.
I travelled back from China Town on the monorail. Transport is convenient and cheap, even ordinary taxis.
Unfortunately, my camera has been stolen. I am angry at losing it, as much because of the photos of family, cats and my holiday, as at the monetary cost of the loss. I have asked my sister to contact my insurance.
I fly to Penang later today. I am spending four days there.
Sunday, November 13, 2005
KL Times II
I don't know what has happened to my first posting, KL Times
I had Roti Pisang, a banana pancake, for breakfast in a street cafe around the corner from the homestay (homestay=backpacker type accommodation). I asked for tea and was presented with a mug of tea containing at least 200 mls of condensed milk at the bottom of the mug. Like Peanut butter, condensed milk is a pet hate, except when made into fudge. The homestay is near some malls and fancier hotels. I have a single room, no window, with aircon. Ablution facilities are shared. The shower is cold water only.
KL has so many contrasts. The Mall is full of the latest IT stuff - 3G cell phones, laptops, mp3 players, bluetooth... There are also booths for face and palm reading, accupuncture and traditional clothing and foods. There is a tiny cart selling Chinese delicacies, a metre accross the passage from MacDonalds. Glitzy hotels and malls and grubby weatherstained highrise flats. Malay girls in Levis and headscarves covering the head and shoulders.
People have been so helpful, and I bumble along the Big White Klutz. The Malls open around 10h30-11h00 and close @ 21h30. A late start suits me. The streetsc are thronged in the evening - foodstalls and street cafes, hawker stalls selling clothing, bling, cds and dvds. Quite sensible for KL people to be night owls as the evening is alot cooler.
Tomorrow I fly to Penang in the evening. 4 days there.
Now I am off to find a dobi (laundry).
I had Roti Pisang, a banana pancake, for breakfast in a street cafe around the corner from the homestay (homestay=backpacker type accommodation). I asked for tea and was presented with a mug of tea containing at least 200 mls of condensed milk at the bottom of the mug. Like Peanut butter, condensed milk is a pet hate, except when made into fudge. The homestay is near some malls and fancier hotels. I have a single room, no window, with aircon. Ablution facilities are shared. The shower is cold water only.
KL has so many contrasts. The Mall is full of the latest IT stuff - 3G cell phones, laptops, mp3 players, bluetooth... There are also booths for face and palm reading, accupuncture and traditional clothing and foods. There is a tiny cart selling Chinese delicacies, a metre accross the passage from MacDonalds. Glitzy hotels and malls and grubby weatherstained highrise flats. Malay girls in Levis and headscarves covering the head and shoulders.
People have been so helpful, and I bumble along the Big White Klutz. The Malls open around 10h30-11h00 and close @ 21h30. A late start suits me. The streetsc are thronged in the evening - foodstalls and street cafes, hawker stalls selling clothing, bling, cds and dvds. Quite sensible for KL people to be night owls as the evening is alot cooler.
Tomorrow I fly to Penang in the evening. 4 days there.
Now I am off to find a dobi (laundry).
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